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University of California Press

About the Book

A History of Cookbooks provides a sweeping literary and historical overview of the cookbook genre, exploring its development as a part of food culture beginning in the Late Middle Ages. Studying cookbooks from various Western cultures and languages, Henry Notaker traces the transformation of recipes from brief notes with ingredients into detailed recipes with a specific structure, grammar, and vocabulary. In addition, he reveals that cookbooks go far beyond offering recipes: they tell us a great deal about nutrition, morals, manners, history, and menus while often providing entertaining reflections and commentaries. This innovative book demonstrates that cookbooks represent an interesting and important branch of nonfiction literature.

About the Author

Henry Notaker is a literary historian who taught courses in food culture and history for over a decade. He was a foreign correspondent for the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation and a TV host of arts and letters shows and documentaries. He is the author of numerous books and articles on European and Latin American contemporary history, food history, and culinary literature.

Table of Contents

Illustrations
Preface
Acknowledgments

PART ONE. FOOD AND TEXT-COOK AND WRITER
Prologue: A Rendezvous
1. The Cook
2. Writer and Author

PART TWO. THE TEXT AND ITS FORM
3. The Origin and Early Development of Modern Cookbooks
4. Printed Cookbooks: Diffusion, Translation, and Plagiarism
5. Organizing the Cookbook
6. Naming the Recipes
7. Pedagogical and Didactic Approaches
8. Paratexts in Cookbooks
9. The Recipe Form
10. The Cookbook Genre

PART THREE. THE TEXT AND ITS WORLD
11. Cookbooks for the Rich and the Poor
12. Health and Medicine in Cookbooks
13. Recipes for Fat Days and Lean Days
14. Vegetarian Cookbooks
15. Jewish Cookbooks
16. Cookbooks and Aspects of Nationalism
17. Decoration, Illusion, and Entertainment
18. Taste and Pleasure
19. Gender in Cookbooks and Household Books

Epilogue: Cookbooks and the Future
Notes
References
Index

Reviews

"Notaker’s impressive work of research calls for cookbooks to be read and valued the same as literature . . . . A History of Cookbooks also serves up a wonderful history of publishing, since that first printed Italian cookbook coincides with the advent of Gutenberg’s press"
Print Magazine
"Notaker’s impressive work of research calls for cookbooks to be read and valued the same as literature . . . . A History of Cookbooks also serves up a wonderful history of publishing, since that first printed Italian cookbook coincides with the advent of Gutenberg’s press"
Print Magazine
"A complex and dense read, and the author is to be complimented on maintaining clarity throughout. For the food historian it is a useful reminder that cookbooks have scope beyond that of mere instruction, and for the literary historian it highlights the complexities that underlie apparently simple manuals. It is a book for serious students of both fields."
Petits Propos Culinaires
“It is the work of a polyglot, a researcher passionate about his subject, and an indefatigable reader. . . . Henry Notaker’s work is a reference book worth having in any good library.”
Agricultural, Food and Environmental Studies
"Well-argued and researched work, taking a new and intriguing approach to a popular subject.”
CHOICE
“A History of Cookbooks offers the ever-delicious reminder that cookbooks remain a form of dynamic and satisfying literature, full of rich and abundant hdetails (the footnotes and bibliography alone make the book a worthwhile read). Notaker has given us a feast of information and details about the evolution of the cookbook, and no matter what the subject, food scholars are sure to find something worth devouring in this essential text.”
Graduate Journal of Food Studies
“Offers the ever-delicious reminder that cookbooks remain a form of dynamic and satisfying literature, full of rich and abundant details (the footnotes and bibliography alone make the book a worthwhile read). Notaker has given us a feast of information and details about the evolution of the cookbook, and no matter what the subject, food scholars are sure to find something worth devouring in this essential text.”
Graduate Association for Food Studies Journal
"...a dense but well-argued and researched work, taking a new and intriguing approach to a popular subject."
CHOICE
“This astonishing book brings thoroughness, discipline, and a new level of scholarship to the history and the nature of one of the commonplaces in our lives. Henry Notaker examines the cookbook through a meticulous dissection of the roles of all those who participate in its creation. He traces the complex process, from the inventive mind of the cook to the responsibilities of the writers, designers, printers, and even those who ultimately see to the distribution of a physical volume that might be found in kitchens anywhere. This is not, however, some kind of simple behind-the-scenes-at-the-zoo tour; it is a profound exploration of a cultural product through a rigorous exploration of the many contexts in which it comes into being. And, beyond that, it is marvelous to read—serious but companionable and rich with good stories. This is a treat for food lovers and for those who love reading about books.”—Nach Waxman, Kitchen Arts & Letters, New York City

“An absolutely magisterial and meticulously researched study of printed cookbooks from the Renaissance to the early twentieth century. The details revealed are immense and the author’s grasp of the material astonishing.”—Ken Albala, author of Beans: A History

“An innovative and original literary history of the Western cookbook that is extraordinarily broad in its range—from the social status of cooks to the evolution of time-keeping devices.”—Barbara Santich, author of Bold Palates: Australia’s Gastronomic Heritage
 
 

Awards

  • Gourmand World Cookbook Awards Special Category (Norway) 2018, Gourmand International