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University of California Press

About the Book

Was ice cream invented in Philadelphia? How about by the Emperor Nero, when he poured honey over snow? Did Marco Polo first taste it in China and bring recipes back? In this first book to tell ice cream's full story, Jeri Quinzio traces the beloved confection from its earliest appearances in sixteenth-century Europe to the small towns of America and debunks some colorful myths along the way. She explains how ice cream is made, describes its social role, and connects historical events to its business and consumption. A diverting yet serious work of history, Of Sugar and Snow provides a fascinating array of recipes, from a seventeenth-century Italian lemon sorbet to a twentieth-century American strawberry mallobet, and traces how this once elite status symbol became today's universally available and wildly popular treat.

About the Author

Jeri Quinzio is the author of Ice Cream: The Ultimate Cold Comfort and a contributor to the ice cream entry in The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America. She has written on articles on a variety of food history topics for numerous periodicals and newspapers.

Table of Contents

preface / ix
acknowledgments / xv

one. Early Ices and Ice Creams / 1
two. Crème de la Cream / 26
three. Ingenious Foreigners and Others / 50
four. The Land of Ice Cream / 75
five. Screaming for Ice Cream / 103
six. Women’s Work / 129
seven. Modern Times / 155
eight. Ice Cream for Breakfast / 180

epilogue. Industry and Artistry / 208

notes / 215
bibliography / 239
index / 000

Reviews

“Masterfully documents ice cream’s modern evolution from junket tablets for the home icebox through the vast array of flavors offered by industrial ice-cream production.”
Booklist
"A chilling page-turner. Jeri Quinzio scoops out a detailed and entertaining picture of my favorite dessert, from its wine-slush origins in 16th-century Italy through contemporary flavor and marketing innovations. I couldn't put it down."—Bruce Weinstein, author of The Ultimate Ice Cream Book

"Jeri Quinzio's wonderful Of Sugar and Snow is that rare pleasure—a work of scholarship and a joy to read."—Barbara Ketcham Wheaton, author of Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789

“This book is a real treat, as fun as running an ice cream store in July!”—Gus Rancatore, owner of Toscanini's Ice Cream

Awards

  • Finalist in the category of Culinary History 2010, 2010 International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Awards