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University of California Press

The Cookbook Library

Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook

by Anne Willan (Author), Mark Cherniavsky (Author), Kyri Claflin (Contribution by)
Price: $54.95 / £46.00
Publication Date: Apr 2012
Edition: 1st Edition
Title Details:
Rights: World
Pages: 344
ISBN: 9780520244009
Trim Size: 8.25 x 10.75
Illustrations: 150 b/w photographs
Series:

About the Book

This gorgeously illustrated volume began as notes on the collection of cookbooks and culinary images gathered by renowned cookbook author Anne Willan and her husband Mark Cherniavsky. From the spiced sauces of medieval times to the massive roasts and ragoûts of Louis XIV’s court to elegant eighteenth-century chilled desserts, The Cookbook Library draws from renowned cookbook author Anne Willan’s and her husband Mark Cherniavsky’s antiquarian cookbook library to guide readers through four centuries of European and early American cuisine. As the authors taste their way through the centuries, describing how each cookbook reflects its time, Willan illuminates culinary crosscurrents among the cuisines of England, France, Italy, Germany, and Spain. A deeply personal labor of love, The Cookbook Library traces the history of the recipe and includes some of their favorites.

About the Author

Anne Willan, founder of La Varenne Cooking School, is the author of many cookbooks including the James Beard Award winner, The Country Cooking of France. Mark Cherniavsky has collected antiquarian cookbooks for more than fifty years. Kyri Claflin is coeditor of Writing Food History: A Global Perspective.

Table of Contents

Preface: Our Library
Acknowledgments
Introduction: The World in a Cookbook

Antiquity through the Middle Ages
Feasts and Fasts
CORMARYE Spicy Roast Pork
BROUET DE VERJUS ET DE POULAILLE Chicken in a Spiced Broth
POUDRE FINE Fragrant Spice Powder
JANCE Sauce Jance
SAUPIQUET Sour and Spicy Sauce for Fish

The Fifteenth Century
The First Printed Cookbooks
FRICTELLA EX SALVIA Sage Fritters with Saffron
DREYERLEY ESSEN VON EINE VISCH Salmon in Disguise
YPOCRAS Spiced Red Wine
ZU MACHE EIN KRAPFFEN TEIG Pigeon or Apple Dumplings
HERICOQ DE MOUTON Spiced Lamb Stew
MON AMY Fresh Cheese Mold

The Sixteenth Century
Culinary Expansion
POTACCIO ALLA ITALIANA Spiced Stew with Chestnuts
POUR FAIRE GELLEE DE COINGS Quince Jelly
PAN'UNTO CON PROUATURA FRESCA Fresh Cheese Crostini with Rose Water
PER FARE TORTA DI CAROTE & D'ALTRE RADICHEper & ALTRE MATERIE A Pie of Carrots and Other Roots
HOW TO BAKE ORENGES Orange Dumplings
TO MAKE A SALLET OF ALL KINE OF HEARBES Green Salad with Herbs
POUR FAIRE TOURTES GENEUES VERDES Spinach and Cheese Tart with Mint

The Seventeenth Century
Distinctive Voices
Spiced Chicken with Red Wine, Vinegar, and Bacon GALLINA MORISCA
Apple Pancakes TO MAKE APPLE PUFS
Asparagus in Cream and Herbs ASPERGES A LA CREME
Luxury Bread and Brioche PAIN BENIT & BRIOCHE
Apple Cider Syllabub AN EXCELLENT SYLLABUB
An English Hot Pot ANOTHER HOTCHPOT
Breast of Veal in Pastry TO MAKE A PASTY OF A BREAST OF VEAL
Strawberry Ice PER FARE ALTR' ACQUA DI FRAVOLE

The Eighteenth Century
Enlightened Cooking
Fried Artichokes with Bacon and Cream ARTICHAUX FRITS
Rich Seed Cake with Caraway and Cinnamon A RICH SEED-CAKE, CALL'D THE NUMN'S CAKE
Chocolate Cream with Lime CHOCOLATE CREAM
Yorkshire Christmas Pie of Five Birds A YORKSHIRE CHRISMAS-PYE
Spit-Roasted Fillet of Beef with Herbs and Mushrooms FILLET DE BOEUF A LA GENDARME
Lemon Sorbet, Juniper Sorbet, and Coffee Ice Cream DES GLACES
Sherry Potato Pie A RICH POTATOE PUDDING
Pot Roast of Beef with Red Wine TO ALAMODE A ROUND

The Early Nineteenth Century
Celebrity Epicures
Pickled Lemons with Allspice, Ginger, and Mustard PICKLED LEMONS
Squash and Apple Pudding A CROOKNECK OR WINTER SQUASH PUDDING
Spit-Roasted Quail with Bay Leaf CAILLES AU LAURIER
Apple Soufflé SOUFFLES PARISIENS AUX POMMES DE REINETTE

Epilogue: Toward the Modern Cookbook
Afterword: Collecting Cookbooks, by Mark Cherniavsky
Notes
Bibliography
General Index
Recipe Index

Reviews

“A wonderfully researched and beautifully illustrated work, "The Cookbook Library" is at once an engaging read and an invaluable resource for anyone passionate about food and food history.”
Los Angeles Times Book Review
“A wonderfully researched and beautifully illustrated work, ‘The Cookbook Library’ is at once an engaging read and an invaluable resource for anyone passionate about food and food history.”
Los Angeles Times
“For years or decades to come, this beautiful volume is going to be an indispensable resource for readers and researchers in love with the history of cookbooks. Certainly it will become one of my own hunting grounds for the answers to many mysteries. . . . Belongs in any real cookbook lover's library.”
Zester Daily
“The Cookbook Library is a treat for food lovers, with rich illustrations to add a visual dimension to the description of Willan’s colossal library.”
Times Literary Supplement
“’Old cookbooks are captivating, and important too, leading us into the world beyond the hearth,’ writes Willan in this beautifully illustrated survey of their 200 books, dating from 1474 to 1830. As she leads readers from the floridly spiced ‘hochepots’ of medieval master chef Taillevent, to the visionary Renaissance kitchen of Bartolomeo Scappi's Opera, to Francois Menon's 1746 La Cuisinière Bourgeoise, it's clear this book is as much about the evolution of European society as it is about what they ate. Whether it was the medieval spice trade (when a pound of nutmeg was worth seven fat oxen) or the 16th-century sugar rush (coinciding with colonial expansion), Western history lies in these ancient recipes.”
Philadelphia Inquirer
“Absorbing ragout of serious history, beautiful coffee-table book and practical kitchen guide.”
Scotsman
“If you really love cookbooks (or books in general) and you love history, this is a book you have to read. . . . I’m still only about halfway through, not because it’s slow going, but because this is a book to read and savor –- I’m parsing out a small section at a time and already regretting the day I finish it.”
Los Angeles Times
“How and why cookbooks were written, their intended audience, the codification of recipe writing—all this is endlessly fascinating to me, and the ambitious scope of this subject makes for some serious reading and digesting.”
Orange Coast Magazine
Sure, we'll always dig perusing food blogs on the reg, but sometimes we love the feeling of leafing through pages of recipes, which is why we'll be at Willan's signing on Saturday to receive her John Hancock.
Www.refinery29.Com
“Whether you are a cookbook addict or someone who just wants to learn about the evolution of recipes, check out The Cookbook Library. You will find it a fascinating read.”
SFGate/Inside Scoop
“A beautiful culinary volume and an important addition to the field of culinary history.”
French Affaires/ Elizabeth’s Blog
“A fascinating history of cookbooks for foodies. Beautifully written it’s a must-have for anyone who finds themselves glued to the likes of Food TV.”
Posh Mom
“A life’s work of such importance and gravitas that anyone that has real interest in food and cooking must read it.”
Virginia Willis Culinary Productions
“A wonderfully researched and beautifully illustrated work. . . at once an engaging read and an invaluable resource for anyone passionate about food and food history.”
Chicago Tribune
“As much a practical kitchen aid as a history of the cookbook itself and a cultural record of how the Western world has dined.”
Wall Street Journal
“Cooking enthusiasts enjoy books with recipes they can’t wait to try. History buffs delight in reading material covering various time periods and the people therein. The Cookbook Library combines both worlds into one book that proves genuinely hard to put down no matter whether you’re more comfortable in the kitchen or the library.”
Herald Democrat Newspaper
“Fascinating new history. . . . It’s The Cookbook Library’s trivia that stands out.”
Globe & Mail
“Food and history buffs will delight in reading The Cookbook Library. . . . No crumb has been left unturned. . . . If you love food history, this one is for you.”
Www.finedininglovers.com
“In a market glutted with books on cookery that offer next to nothing fresh or of interest, this authoritative volume, which reminds us of our culinary heritage, is like a breath of fresh air. . . . Bypass the dross and seek out this volume for a most rewarding read on the history of cookbooks and for the ownership of a beautifully produced book- one for the library, not for bespattering in the kitchen.”
Australian Book Review
“Tells a sprawling true story of kitchens, cooks, recipes, and changing tastes over an expanse of some 400 years.”
Shafer Wine & Food
“The book is captivating in its style, with terrific historical illustrations. They are magical. . . . For those that are into cooking, it is a great centerpiece to any collection.”
SF / Sacramento Book Rev / 1776 Prod
"An inspiring and informative read."
Santé
“Collecting cookbooks is an exciting, provoking, challenging, and rewarding passion. In The Cookbook Library, Anne Willan gives us a fascinating collection of stories and recipes from European and early American historical cookbooks. It is a must for anyone interested in culinary history.” —Jacques Pepin, author of Essential Pepin

“Anyone who cares about cooking will care deeply about what Anne Willan has to tell us about its history as it was set down centuries ago and passed on to us through the rare cookbooks she and her husband have collected and cherished for almost fifty years. With great intelligence and tremendous charm, Willan helps us to understand where recipes came from, who created them, who cooked them, who recorded them, who ate what was recorded and in what fashion. It is a delicious history that, like all good histories—and good stories—illuminates the present.” —Dorie Greenspan, author of Around My French Table

“It is evident even from the first page that this is a book every serious foodie will need to own, consult, and use with pleasure and profit, and remarkable that the authors have written a volume that is both scholarly and so much fun to read.” —Paul Levy, author of The Official Foodie Handbook

“Forty-five years in the making, this volume was worth the wait. In The Cookbook Library Anne Willan and Mark Cherniavsky draw on their fine personal collection to illuminate the art, science, and importance of early cookbooks. It is a pleasurable read, filled with history, lore, recipes, and illustrations in a superb presentation. It will be an unequaled reference work for historians, bibliophiles, culinarians, and collectors.” —Jan Longone, Curator of American Culinary History, Clements Library, University of Michigan

“Anne Willan and Mark Cherniavsky love cookbooks and live among thousands of them. It’s a great gift to us that they’ve now shared their world-class collection and all of its delights. In The Cookbook Library, they take you on a fascinating journey from medieval kitchens through the nineteenth century. It’s the perfect book for anyone interested in food history.” —Amanda Hesser, cofounder of FOOD52.com

Awards

  • The Hall of Fame Award 2012, Gourmand World Cookbook Awards
  • Finalist, IACP Cookbook Award for Culinary History 2013, International Association of Culinary Professionals
  • The Jane Grigson Award 2013, International Association of Culinary Professionals
  • Finalist in Reference and Scholarship 2013, James Beard Foundation Awards