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University of California Press

About the Book

There’s a problem with school lunch in America. Big Food companies have largely replaced the nation’s school cooks by supplying cafeterias with cheap, precooked hamburger patties and chicken nuggets chock-full of industrial fillers. Yet it’s no secret that meals cooked from scratch with nutritious, locally sourced ingredients are better for children, workers, and the environment. So why not empower “lunch ladies” to do more than just unbox and reheat factory-made food? And why not organize together to make healthy, ethically sourced, free school lunches a reality for all children?
 
The Labor of Lunch aims to spark a progressive movement that will transform food in American schools, and with it the lives of thousands of low-paid cafeteria workers and the millions of children they feed. By providing a feminist history of the US National School Lunch Program, Jennifer E. Gaddis recasts the humble school lunch as an important and often overlooked form of public care. Through vivid narration and moral heft, The Labor of Lunch offers a stirring call to action and a blueprint for school lunch reforms capable of delivering a healthier, more equitable, caring, and sustainable future.
 



 

About the Author

Jennifer E. Gaddis is Assistant Professor in the Department of Civil Society and Community Studies in the School of Human Ecology at the University of Wisconsin, Madison.
 

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Table of Contents

List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements

Introduction: Why We Need to Fix the Food and the Jobs
1 • The Radical Roots of School Lunch
2 • The Fight for Food Justice
3 • From Big Food to Real Food Lite
4 • Cafeteria Workers in the “Prison of Love”
5 • Building a Real Food Economy
Conclusion: Organizing a New Economy of Care

Notes
Bibliography
Index

Reviews

The Labor of Lunch lays out how transforming the food culture in American schools can significantly improve both the lives of the country’s low-wage cafeteria workers and those of the millions of children they feed every day.”
Quality Assurance Magazine
"Argues that universally free, from-scratch lunches turns the school cafeteria into a vital community resource: one that helps kids develop healthy eating habits and provides skilled jobs for workers."
Mother Jones
“When we think about the crumbling national infrastructure that holds our country back, Jennifer Gaddis argues that we need to look beyond bridges, broadband, and high-speed rail –– and see the urgency of bringing our nation's 100,000 school cafeterias into the 21st century. She's on exactly the right track. What if our nation's largest restaurant chain –– our 100,000 schools –– could be retooled as an engine for creating good jobs in our communities, building our local farm economies, and nourishing our kids with fresh-cooked food?"
 
Co-Founder & CEO, FoodCorps

"A welcome addition to the growing library of works focusing on labor in the food system. This topic deserves attention and Gaddis is looking at the plight of an especially neglected group, the people who make and serve food to kids in schools. . . . Let grass-roots advocacy begin!" 

Food Politics
"The book seeks to engage the reader to learn about the power struggles of ‘lunch ladies’ and how such discourses are maintained in society. Gaddis is an advocate with a strong interest in environmental justice, which comes through in the writing. The book is more than just an ethnography of school lunches; it is a reminder that we need to revisit our food systems and consider how this policy area is still very much classed, gendered, and racialized. . . . This book reignites the importance of food activism and recognizes historical roots while seeking and creating theories of change."
Contemporary Sociology
"The Labor of Lunch is a comprehensive and readable work of activist scholarship examining school feeding in the US. This work is suitable for advanced undergraduate students, graduate students and scholars of school food policy, institutional feeding and history of food systems, as well as those interested in food movements, and care-labor."
Food, Culture & Society
“What might the history of school lunch teach today’s food justice activists about intersectionality? How did the private sector come to dominate what America’s youth eat? Why are most people readier to think of ‘lunch ladies’ as administrators of slop than as front-line care workers? Jennifer Gaddis’s swift prose and sharp mind keep you turning the pages through generations of women’s movement activism, lunch shaming, chicken nuggets, and a corps sacrificing their own welfare so that ‘their kids’ might eat well. The result is a brilliant history and incisive analysis of the cheap care that hides behind the modern school lunch.”––Raj Patel, author of Stuffed and Starved: The Hidden Battle for the World Food System

“In this pathbreaking book, Gaddis shows that labor—and specifically by lunch ladies—is the missing ingredient in the recipe for success in the National School Lunch Program. A must-read for anyone who cares about children, food, education, labor, or well-being.”––Juliet Schor, Professor of Sociology, Boston College

“This is an important book, one that advances the scholarship of food systems and public policy, and one that will contribute to mobilizing much-needed change in our national school food programs.”––Janet Poppendieck, author of Free for All: Fixing School Food in America
 

Awards

  • IACP Cookbook Awards (Food Issues & Matters category) 2020 2020, International Association of Culinary Professionals
  • Sara A. Whaley Prize 2020 2020, National Women's Studies Association